Is it worth it? An exploration of clothing repair and value using wardrobe studies

Abstract

This master’s thesis explores what garments are being repaired and why and how repair affects the value of the clothes. A literature review was performed in the early stages to establish a context for the project. Two expert interviews were conducted to supplement the limited literature on clothing repair. Wardrobe studies and interviews with 4 Norwegian couples between the ages of 20 and 34 became a source of qualitative data. The informants answered in-depth questions about garments shown during the wardrobe study. A total of 50 garments (including three pairs of shoes and a purse) were presented between the 8 informants, 22 of which have been repaired. One repair was performed by a professional service, with the remaining being done privately.

The data was processed using reflexive thematic analysis, utilizing coding and thematic mapping. The diverse wearer-clothing relationships are discussed to explore how informants were motivated toward repair. The themes extracted from the data highlight low competences, the importance of favorites and aesthetics (visible vs invisible repair), and the individual nature of value. How repair affects value is determined by what the mender values in the garment. Economic, social, environmental, functional, emotional and epistemic values are observed in the data. Repair may increase some value types while simultaneously decreasing others. The most significant self-perceived barrier to repair for these informants is a lack of competence. This study contributes to the field by exploring repaired as well as damaged clothing and adding to the underexplored subject of male clothing consumption.